-Changed steam boiler gasket. PITA to scrape the old one out. I tightened the bolts a little at a time and in an opposite side manner, i.e. left, right, left, right.
-Changed brew boiler gasket. PITA to loosen heating element end cap. Don't break the pin upon replacing the gasket. The solid teflon gasket works and acts as a spacer.
-Replaced the flowmeter. You can use the metal top if you only need to repair a cracked top. It works fine.
-Replaced a bunch of steam wand o-rings, water wand o-rings, and 3-way valve o-rings.
-Silicone tube sleeved almost all of the electrical connections to hopefully extend the life of the connections and reduce moisture from the spitting vacuum breaker. Probably completely useless but whatever.
-Replaced frayed ground connections on the boiler. Just cut off the old ones and added some new ones that I had. Be careful when tightening the bolt on the boiler because it will want to rotate the ground as you tighten it.
-Change the 3/8 BSPP:3/8 BSPT fitting at the inlet side of the pump to a 3/8 BSPP:3/8 MNPT fitting. I then added a 3/8 FNPT:3/4 MGH (Male Garden Hose) fitting to that and then a 3/4 FGH:3/8 Compression "L" fitting so that I could add the 3/8 Compression SS hose to go to my water container. Yes, this is convoluted. I was figuring it out as I went. In hindsight I would get a 3/8 BSPP:1/2 MNPT adapter as there is WAY more stuff for a 1/2 NPT connection. Yes, Chris' Coffee has some John Guest fittings. I know.
-Added a 60mm Orman dual pressure gauge. Tight fit and I made a bad hole cut but oh well. It should fit if I made the cut more accurate. However you cannot go any lower than the existing hole.
-Flashed the board for pre-infusion.
-Scrubbed and scrubbed the entire machine because the previous owner probably spilled milk on the top and DID NOT KNOW WHAT BACK-FLUSHING WAS!
-Replaced the copper crush ferrules and tube from the steam boiler to the steam wand. If you re-use these ferrules too many times they will not seal.
-Adjusted the 3-way valve to start dripping at 12.5 BAR. I thought it would really squirt out when it opens but I think because it is a spring loaded valve it will slowly open unless it is way over pressurized. I guess you could call it a 12.5 BAR cracking pressure:)
-New larger rubber sleeve for the steam wand.
-Used food safe grease to lube the bearing on the pump motor. I didn't drill the weep hole bigger though.
-Cut the water level probe sleeve at the top so that I could drop it 1/8" or so. I think this fixed my issue with water in the steam wand and the vacuum breaker spewing water.
Hmm, I think that is it:) If you are wondering what it costed I honestly have not added it all up, nor do I really want to:) Obviously I will add it up at some point but it will not be totally indicative of the lowest cost way to do this because I now have spare parts, bottomless portafilters, extra baskets, etc. which were not or are not required for fixing the machine.
Pictures and videos to come in a bit. Oh, and one more thing. It basically took two months to do this because I have a 15 month old at home so my man-cave working time was restricted to 9 or 10 PM a few evenings a week:) Add in the time to wait for parts and there you go:)