Hi,
Just a few questions:
1. Has anyone plumbed-in the drip tray? Is it easy to do? Can it be done with quick detact fittings so the tray can be cleaned, or do you clean in place.
2. Can you pull a shot and steam at the same time? Even if you can do that, is doing so the correct procedure?
3. Does anyone have the approximate costs per day of running the S1 24/7?
Thanks a ton!
Pre purchase questions
- chas
- Vivaldi Dreamer
- Posts: 3050
- Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2004 11:52 pm
- Location: Central Maryland
- Contact:
Re: Pre purchase questions
If you use the search feature on this forum you will see several discussions of this topic. However, I've never seen a reply from another that took the plunge and actually tried it. At this point Chris had told several of us that La Spaziale is designing a plumbable drip tray for release several months down the road. I think most are waiting to see what that is like, how much Chris will charge, and how much metal sawing is involved in retro-fitting the S1. You can search for previous discussions about this as well.mswanson wrote:Hi,
Just a few questions:
1. Has anyone plumbed-in the drip tray? Is it easy to do? Can it be done with quick detact fittings so the tray can be cleaned, or do you clean in place?
Sure. That's a key reason for dual boiler machines.2. Can you pull a shot and steam at the same time? Even if you can do that, is doing so the correct procedure?!
I've been meaning to break out my AC current checker and try to guesstimate this myself as I had previously done as a Tea owner. Still haven't found the time or energy.3. Does anyone have the approximate costs per day of running the S1 24/7?
Chas
LM GS/3 & LaSpaziale Dream v 1.25 (US 120V)
Mazzer Kony E, Customized Rocky
Hottop P/B
LM GS/3 & LaSpaziale Dream v 1.25 (US 120V)
Mazzer Kony E, Customized Rocky
Hottop P/B
- chas
- Vivaldi Dreamer
- Posts: 3050
- Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2004 11:52 pm
- Location: Central Maryland
- Contact:
It's supposed to be 2200W but amps is the key part of the calculation when it comes to ensuring you won't trip a breaker. In that regard I am lucky to have high voltage at my house. My voltage runs a bit over 125V which lowers the amps.
What I am doing should be a no-no in that the only other thing on the same circuit as my S1 is my refrigerator - the worst possible combination in the kitchen! But it works and I haven't blown a breaker in the 15 months since I've had the S1. So I can have both boilers and the refrigerator all running and stay under 20A. I probably lucked out because the fridge is small - no side by side stainless steel monster! Still - not recommended...
On the other hand, if you are interested more in the cost of 24x7 operation, how often the boilers cycle on and off, and how long they stay on each time are key factors. I think using an AC current meter and taking readings for a period of time as the boilers cycle and coming up with a time profile is the only way to get close with that calculation. In many areas the amount per KW-Hr also varies in different times of the year.
When I measured the Tea I was pleasantly surprised by the low cost. If you assume 1400W 24x7 the number is big. However, the boilers only came on about 5sec every 2 minutes when idle. In my case of only pulling 2-3 shots a day I didn't even calculate in the reheat time after a shot since the time involved is so much smaller than the idle time.
What I am doing should be a no-no in that the only other thing on the same circuit as my S1 is my refrigerator - the worst possible combination in the kitchen! But it works and I haven't blown a breaker in the 15 months since I've had the S1. So I can have both boilers and the refrigerator all running and stay under 20A. I probably lucked out because the fridge is small - no side by side stainless steel monster! Still - not recommended...
On the other hand, if you are interested more in the cost of 24x7 operation, how often the boilers cycle on and off, and how long they stay on each time are key factors. I think using an AC current meter and taking readings for a period of time as the boilers cycle and coming up with a time profile is the only way to get close with that calculation. In many areas the amount per KW-Hr also varies in different times of the year.
When I measured the Tea I was pleasantly surprised by the low cost. If you assume 1400W 24x7 the number is big. However, the boilers only came on about 5sec every 2 minutes when idle. In my case of only pulling 2-3 shots a day I didn't even calculate in the reheat time after a shot since the time involved is so much smaller than the idle time.
Chas
LM GS/3 & LaSpaziale Dream v 1.25 (US 120V)
Mazzer Kony E, Customized Rocky
Hottop P/B
LM GS/3 & LaSpaziale Dream v 1.25 (US 120V)
Mazzer Kony E, Customized Rocky
Hottop P/B
Yeah, ohm's law says it's 2200W draw, but of course, that's maxium. I suppose that I could figure out both boiler element draw, and then figure out how many times it would go on in the day and then for how long, just as you state. Then throw in the econ mode.
If you're tea wasn't a big deal, the I'm sure the S1 isn't that much more.
I called Chris coffee, and they wouldn't state when the plumbable drip tray would be available. Hopefully, under a year's time.:)
If you're tea wasn't a big deal, the I'm sure the S1 isn't that much more.
I called Chris coffee, and they wouldn't state when the plumbable drip tray would be available. Hopefully, under a year's time.:)
Thanks for bugging Chris :)mswanson wrote:I called Chris coffee, and they wouldn't state when the plumbable drip tray would be available. Hopefully, under a year's time.:)
The more people ask for it, the more certain it will be that we actually get it sometime soon...
I generally believe that (unless you have your S1 in a location that doesn't allow it) a machine that is plumbed in, so you stop worrying about refilling water, should also be drained out, so you don't need to start worrying emptying the drip tray. Especially for water-wasters among us (i.e. myself), that like to rinse the portafilter under the hot-water spout.
Plumbing in the drip tray, an eaasier compromise
I suspect much of the liquid in the tray comes from expansion as the boilers heat cold, denser water up to temp. And there is that released after pulling a shot. Those two sources drip into the tray through small, copper and brass vertical tubes at the right side, rear and above the square extension of the tray. See Picture 2, Front View D and E at http://www.rimpo.org/s1/S1Photos.html.
There is almost an inch clearance between the end of the tubes and the tray lip to allow for the tray to be removed without hitting the tubes.
I found in my junk box a small, soft metal can with a pipe attachment drain out the side near its bottom. This can is of a soft metal, probably lead, and fits up and snugly over the two tubes with enough room for a drain hose on the 1/4 fitting to clear the tray and drain to the sink next to my S1. The top of the can is open and there is no pressure devoped in the can. I think a small tin can might work with a soldered fitting on the side at the bottom. Something about the size of a tomato puree can, and stabilized with a twist tie. As the tray is not modified, it is still easy to clean occasionally.
I always emptied the tray and feared my wife would fail to do so while I was away for three weeks. Well, I returned yesterday to find some old wet grounds and only 1-2 Oz of dirty water in the tray. So, while this mod isn't a complete plumbing solution, it is easy, cheap and works quite well for me. I flush into a cup anyhow to inspect the water for detritus, so that doesn't add to the tray load.
I will try to get some pictures if there is interest.
There is almost an inch clearance between the end of the tubes and the tray lip to allow for the tray to be removed without hitting the tubes.
I found in my junk box a small, soft metal can with a pipe attachment drain out the side near its bottom. This can is of a soft metal, probably lead, and fits up and snugly over the two tubes with enough room for a drain hose on the 1/4 fitting to clear the tray and drain to the sink next to my S1. The top of the can is open and there is no pressure devoped in the can. I think a small tin can might work with a soldered fitting on the side at the bottom. Something about the size of a tomato puree can, and stabilized with a twist tie. As the tray is not modified, it is still easy to clean occasionally.
I always emptied the tray and feared my wife would fail to do so while I was away for three weeks. Well, I returned yesterday to find some old wet grounds and only 1-2 Oz of dirty water in the tray. So, while this mod isn't a complete plumbing solution, it is easy, cheap and works quite well for me. I flush into a cup anyhow to inspect the water for detritus, so that doesn't add to the tray load.
I will try to get some pictures if there is interest.