The motor run capacitor bracket was loose.
The group temperature sensor was rattling loose in its well.
Both were fixed easily.
Loose hardware
I guess you opened it up before you turned it on and then you fixed these little issues you found?
I did the same thing also but the only things I found both times were the off-centered gauges.
I know the steam sensors on the VII's aren't supposed to be very tight (compared to the old S1) but yours does sound like it needed fixin'.
I did the same thing also but the only things I found both times were the off-centered gauges.
I know the steam sensors on the VII's aren't supposed to be very tight (compared to the old S1) but yours does sound like it needed fixin'.
Yes, I took it apart before hooking it up.
The original issue was the dual gauge pushed to the left. Once inside I found that the motor start cap had flopped over and pushed the gauge out of alignment.
I stuck the group thermal sensor to the end of its well with a dab of RTV while I was in there. It was rattling loose and sliding in and out depending on how the machine was tilted.
And... Since I can't leave well enough alone...
I put convolute tubing over tubes and wires that pass through holes in sheet metal.
I also coated the controller board with acrylic conformal coat (don't leave home without it) while I was in there. The triac boards look more vulnerable but I didn't get around to coating them. Maybe next time.
The original issue was the dual gauge pushed to the left. Once inside I found that the motor start cap had flopped over and pushed the gauge out of alignment.
I stuck the group thermal sensor to the end of its well with a dab of RTV while I was in there. It was rattling loose and sliding in and out depending on how the machine was tilted.
And... Since I can't leave well enough alone...
I put convolute tubing over tubes and wires that pass through holes in sheet metal.
I also coated the controller board with acrylic conformal coat (don't leave home without it) while I was in there. The triac boards look more vulnerable but I didn't get around to coating them. Maybe next time.
Now that it's back in use I would like to insulate the boilers.
What to use? Food service approved silicone foam?
Where might I find that?
Not exactly day one but I noticed the plastic body of my pressure regulator had cracked when I installed it today. I looked locally and found a replacement with a brass shell.
What to use? Food service approved silicone foam?
Where might I find that?
Not exactly day one but I noticed the plastic body of my pressure regulator had cracked when I installed it today. I looked locally and found a replacement with a brass shell.
Last edited by CLB on Fri Jul 06, 2007 9:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
No problem.
I've read on other sites, besides the one he mentions in that thread, that the insulation material works really well.
I wouldn't want to destroy those fine cabinets either...
I've read on other sites, besides the one he mentions in that thread, that the insulation material works really well.
I wouldn't want to destroy those fine cabinets either...
Was it a local Ace Hardware or some other Ma & Pa shop? I don't suspect Lowe's or Home Dumpo would have something like that....CLB wrote:I noticed the plastic body of my pressure regulator had cracked when I installed it today. I looked locally and found a replacement with a brass shell.
The plastic regulator was purchased from Chris with the Spaz. I believe it is made by Watts.
The Brass regulator is also made by Watts. It is the same size as the plastic one and also had 3/8 NPT threads. It had garden hose fittings threaded in which removed easily.
I looked at the largest local plumbing supply house I knew of within a reasonable distance. They were called George Morlan. I think they are just local as opposed to a chain.
Had that failed I would peruse something like a Grainger catalog Monday, which would make for a long weekend.
The Brass regulator is also made by Watts. It is the same size as the plastic one and also had 3/8 NPT threads. It had garden hose fittings threaded in which removed easily.
I looked at the largest local plumbing supply house I knew of within a reasonable distance. They were called George Morlan. I think they are just local as opposed to a chain.
Had that failed I would peruse something like a Grainger catalog Monday, which would make for a long weekend.
No worries, the Spaz can operate on something like 87psi water pressure. The expansion valve would drip more but it should function OK unless your incoming water is really high.
I've seen those Watts regulators in brass in the Grainger catalogue and someone else (ScottW) on this forum posted something about them some time ago on another thread. As a matter of fact, it might've been a thread I started about my dying regulator a few months ago, I adjusted the hell out of it and it just stripped.
I've seen those Watts regulators in brass in the Grainger catalogue and someone else (ScottW) on this forum posted something about them some time ago on another thread. As a matter of fact, it might've been a thread I started about my dying regulator a few months ago, I adjusted the hell out of it and it just stripped.