switch from 15 to 20 amp

[goldscalpel]

I finally got my 20 amp circuit. I opened my mini and found the amp switch. It was already on 20. i guess it never caused any problems before. I also noticed that there is an on and off switch right next to the amp switch. it is set on off right now. I am not sure what it is. Do you need to switch that on?

[slo]

NOoooo!

Actually the other switch is the timer switch. It must be in the ON position only if you have the programmable timer. Putting the switch to ON without the timer can create a lot of electronic problems.

[goldscalpel]

Thanks

[RadOD]

Can you tell me where I can find the switch? I'm getting my 20 amp soon.

[Endo]

Remove the one screw holding the warming tray on top, lift off the tray and look down inside on the right. Oton took a photo here:

http://s703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40 ... switch.jpg

[richardcoffee]

I am interested in knowing how you who have switched from 15 amp to 20 amp operation have found the difference to be on the mini. Are you happy you made the switch? Why? Do you have more steam power? It's hard for me to imagine that I'd benefit from more. Or, perhaps, you find greater brew temperature stability? I do notice that while brewing - say at 94 degrees, half way through the shot, all the lights are off - I assume that means my brew temp has dropped below 91 degrees - even if only momentarily. I'm trying to decide if there's justification for spending the money to install a dedicated 20 amp line.
Thanks.

[chas]

When the S1 is in 15A mode, the coffee boiler has priority. So if the steam boiler is ON and you start pulling a shot, the steam boiler immediately turns off and the coffee boiler comes on. If, based on your comment below, the fact that the temp lights go off when you pull a shot is what you are pondering using 20A mode to correct, it won't help that.

On the other hand, if you are pulling a shot which probably causes the coffee boiler to turn on and you try to simultaneously steam some milk, the steam boiler won't turn on until the coffee boiler shuts off.

In my house I discovered that, while the outlet I plugged the S1 into had 15A style outlets, the circuit was 20A. If that is the case in your house and you don't have any power hogs plugged into other outlets (if any) on that circuit you can safely, switch the S1 into 20A mode and test it for yourself.

[richardcoffee]

I'm not dexterous enough; nor am I impatient enough to steam and draw shots at the same time - at least not yet - so I reckon I don't see any reason for the 20 amp.

[GDK]

I just got a 20A breaker from Home Depot and swapped the 15A out - you must be comfortable doing this. No need to change the outlet if you have the adapter already. Note that you do not gain much on initial warm up as steam boiler only starts after the grew boiler warms up to the set temperature (for the first time). After that, they do work simultaneously, as needed. For making one or two drink at a time, the 20A mode does not buy you much I think.

I accelerated the initial warm up time by about 2 minutes total by isolating the two boilers.

[chas]

Well, code requires 12 gauge copper wire for a 20A circuit while 14 gauge is the standard for a 15A circuit. If you put a 20A breaker on a circuit that has 14 gauge wire, don't tell your insurance agent. Of course, there's always an outside chance that you have 12 gauge wire already even if you have a 15A breaker.

[GDK]

Good point, in my case the wires are at least 20A rated as plugs in the kitchen are configured in split circuit (the two plugs in a pair are connected to different phases - for load balancing. In my cases, this installation uses a cable with white, red and black wires (plus the ground) - the same as the wire used for the 240V range and dryer plugs, i.e. rated likely for 40A per phase. One has to be careful for sure!